Spinning Down-Type Fiber – Southdown (and the Suffolk that Wasn’t)

Three balls of Southdown – Woollen-spun, more tightly plyed, Woollen-spun, less tightly plyed, Worsted-spun.

First I have to say that I am very tired of grey and rain.  Very. Tired.

I am aware that it’s only January, and that this will be with us here on the Oregon Coast for many moons yet…just like it was in Bellingham. But being home during the day definitely colors the…well…grey. Sigh.

Anyhow, I had intended to sample and swatch two down-type breeds from my breed study box for this post.  I did the Southdown, and then went for the Suffolk.  Which was, quite unexpectedly, GREY.

“Grey Suffolk”

Now, I’m pretty new to the spinning world, but I’ve learned enough to know that the down-type breeds are primarily meat sheep – fleeces are an afterthought. Down-type herds in the United States are almost exclusively white (many with black faces) so that their fleeces can be sold into the wool pool for industrial or mass market wool items. (Fun fact – Pendleton purchases the vast majority of the wool pool in the US.) Wool pool wool needs to be white so it can be dyed any color the purchaser wants…non-white lambs are usually culled from herds. So this little fluff of grey wool labeled “Suffolk” was perplexing.

What to do? Consult the Fleece and Fiber Sourcebook, of course. Sure enough, there is a little note in it about a grey mystery wool being sold as grey Suffolk…that bears absolutely no resemblance to regular Suffolk. So, back into the box it goes. Perhaps I’ll spin it at some point, but it doesn’t help my study very much right now!

Southdown

So, on to the Southdown. Southdown is the grand-pappy of all the down-type breeds, so it was an obvious starting point with down-type wool. In reality it was just the poof of fiber I pulled from the box, but…never mind that.

Woollen-Spun (l), Worsted Spun (r).

As always, I spun half of my one ounce sample worsted style and half woollen. I keep looking at my samples and thinking that they don’t look that different, for the most part. My consistency wasn’t great in either case, apparently, and the thick and thin bits are pretty obvious in both sample skeins. I am still working on getting enough (but not too much) twist into my long draw singles so they don’t fall apart during plying, and this time I only had a couple of breaks! I’m going to consider that a win.

Andean plying bracelets

The result of one of the breaks was two plying bracelets. Why two? Because one of the traits of a down-type breed is that the wool will not felt, so my usual spit-splice method of disguising breaks in my singles wasn’t an option. Two bracelets it was. Which, as it turned out, was perfect for sampling.

I started my plying with 4 treadles per 12-15 inches on my 8:1 ratio. Straight off the bobbin it was a little under-plyed, so I upped my treadling on the larger bracelet to 5 per 12-15 inches on the same ratio in an attempt to balance it – only to discover that then it was slightly over-plyed. I washed them and blocked them and didn’t see a lot of difference, but the real difference was in the swatches.

Worsted-spun

The worsted yarn is denser and the stitch definition is cleaner (mostly), which is to be expected. I like the nubbles where I was inconsistent in my spinning, and I think this would make quite a nice sweater that would be durable and long-lasting. It would also make lovely socks, I’m pretty sure.

Woollen-spun, more tightly plyed

The woollen spun swatches are the interesting part. Although I liked the look of the more tightly plyed yarn better, I like the knitted swatch that uses the under-plyed yarn better. It more closely resembles what I’ve been taught a woollen-spun yarn should be – light, airy, and fuzzy. Although I don’t know how well it would hold up to significant wear, I really love how the swatch feels now. An under-plyed laceweight Southdown yarn might be quite lovely and I suspect it would bloom nicely over time.

Woollen-spun, less tightly plyed

I would absolutely experiment with Southdown again. And since my husband thinks that Babydoll Southdowns should be part of our future fiber herd, I guess that’s a good thing!

A Long Hiatus…And Some New Spinning

The first of the breed study breeds (L to R) – Swaledale, Herdwick, Charollais.

I may have mentioned that historically I’m a terrible blogger…and now I’ve proven it once again!  Of course I also quit a job to move to a new state (Oregon) with my husband who got a new job, and there were holidays…but still. Bad blogger.

So, New Year, New Start.  Having moved and being unemployed (at the moment) means I have time to do a lot of crafty things, and I’ve started my breed study in earnest.  What is a breed study, you ask? I have a box 1 oz samples of the fleece of of 32 breeds, and I’m choosing which breed I spin pretty randomly. I’m splitting each 1 oz bit into two 1/2 oz. parts so I can spin one worsted and one semi-woollen or woollen. My worsted spins are being done with a short forward draw straight from the combed tops – my comfort zone!

I was a lucky lady and received a blending board as a Christmas present, so I’m making rolags and doing my semi-woollen or woollen spinning from them using supported long draw. I’m just learning this technique and have had to spit splice my singles back together during plying…but hopefully I’m getting better along the way!

If you want to know more about the specific breeds and their origins, I recommend The Fleece and Fiber Sourcebook by Deborah Robson and Carol Ekarius. I’m trying to read up on each breed before I start spinning it.

Herdwick

Herdwick – Semi-woollen on top, semi-worsted on bottom

I started my study way back in September with this Herdwick sample.  As you can see, it is hairy! It is full of kemp and guard hairs, and is pretty rough no matter how you spin it. I imagine that if you got a raw fleece it might be possible to separate the finer fibers from the rest through carding, but it would be quite a process and I’m not sure how much usable fiber you’d end up with.

I used a regular short forward draw on the worsted sample. A smooth result was not going to happen, so I tried to let the wool do what it was going to do.

I did the semi-woollen sample here using long draw, but from the commercial top – at the time I didn’t have a way to re-prep it for woollen spinning so I just did the best I could. I think that either of these samples would be great for a hard wearing woven project – but I’m not a weaver.  So I knitted little swatches, and it was a bit like knitting with twine.  I kind of like the result, but the process wasn’t super pleasant!

Semi-Woollen on left, Semi-Worsted on right

The samples overall look a lot the same – partly that’s the wool and partly that’s the prep – but I don’t think my semi-woollen sample would have been that much different even if I’d carded it. Perhaps sometime I’ll have the opportunity to find out!

Swaledale

Swaledale-Woollen on top, worsted on bottom.

I loved this fiber, start to finish. I chose it as my second fiber to sample because it was a pretty color, and it didn’t disappoint! I spun the first sample using short forward draw and plyed for a balanced yarn (although it wasn’t). I like the smoothness of the sample, as well as the definition in the plys. It’s not next to the skin soft, but it would be fantastic for outerwear.

This was a great fiber to start with for a) learning to make some of my first rolags on my blending board and b) using as my early rolags to create semi-woollen yarn. It’s toothy enough to hang together while I learn, and the result is so fluffy and lovely!  I loved how it bloomed in its warm blocking bath. If I’d had one, I would have used a little plunger to felt it up a bit – I do think it would pill quickly in a garment that got any abrasion. (A plunger? What is she talking about? Beth Smith explains it all here.)

Swaledale Swatches – Woollen on left, Worsted on right.

Although this could be a hard wearing yarn if spun tightly and knitted or woven tightly, I found that both samples were pretty lovely to knit on a size 7 needle. I wasn’t trying for a specific weight, but managed just about a worsted weight for both my yarn samples.

I would definitely spin some Swaledale again sometime – maybe for a nice cardigan!

Charollais

Charollais – Woollen sample on top, Worsted sample on bottom.

My final samples for this post were Charollais – a creamy, slightly toothy French breed. Although it’s not technically a down-type breed, I think the character of the wool is much the same. It’s quite crimpy (although I can’t say if its a spiral crimp) and a bit rough, but would make fantastic sock yarn.

This fleece has a short staple, so I spun it pretty tightly on my worsted spin – which resulted in a slightly wirier yarn than I meant to make. The semi-woolen sample is a little nicer, but I wish I’d done it with a teensy bit less twist. Or perhaps I wish that I’d been a little more consistent in the diameter of my singles for both spins. My accidental thick-and-thin spots are quite evident in both the worsted and the semi-woollen samples and swatches, which I’m not wild about…but I actually like the way the swatches bloomed in their warm baths. Again, the woollen-spun yarn might have benefited from a plunger treatment.

Charollais swatches – Woollen on left, Worsted on right.

I knit both of my swatches on size 6 needles. Even though I said my worsted sample yarn was a little wiry, I actually think that with a bit of practice this could be a good sock yarn.  There is probably a “solid but not like knitting twine” happy middle ground that would result in a nice fabric – I can feel it a bit in the less fine-sections.